BOLLERISMO UNA BANDERA DE IDENTIDAD

No recuerdo bien si la primera vez que comí un bollo fue de pie donde Corozo, cuando tenía su kiosko en la calle Pichincha, en plena zona bancaria. O tal vez, en la Bahía, la zona comercial informal de Guayaquil o “Mall del pueblo” pidiendo al vuelo, con algo de incertidumbre acerca de la calidad y procedencia -y comiendo sobre mis dos extremidades inferiores también- de manos de una señora que portaba una canasta. Lo que sí recuerdo, es que el Bollo de Corozo era de albacora y el Bollo de canasta era de Cangrejo. El bollo de Corozo era maravilloso, me hice asidua. El bollo de cangrejo, por su parte, sublime e irrepetible. No encontré nunca más a aquella mujer. Habré tenido entre 15 y 17 años (este dato tampoco lo tengo claro).

Veinte años después, he devenido cocinera y he instituido dentro mis cursos de cocina el Bollerismo: “Taller Gastronómico Criollo de Bollos”. En sus inicios consistió en un bollo de pescado – con cangrejo- -inevitablemente- y de escoltas de sabor: ceviche de camarones orgánicos, salsa criolla picante, aguacate, arroz blanco -inmaculado y humeante-. Algún tiempo después cuando incursioné en versionar platos ecuatorianos en modalidad vegana o vegetariana, el Bollerismo se convirtió en una Bandera Vegana Ecuatoriana compuesta de bollo, guatita y ceviche. Aquí, algunos apuntes precisos y otros no tanto sobre estas tradicionales preparaciones:

Bollo: masa de plátano verde rallado, cocinada con suculento refrito de cebolla colorada, cebolla blanca, pimiento asado, ajo, achiote, especias tostadas y molidas, y los infaltables culantro y hierbabuena. Caldo de vegetales para hidratar la masa. Guiso de tres o cuatro tipos de hongos – champiñones, portobellos, shiitake, silvestres-, zuccinis verdes y amarillos, vainitas. Pasta de maní para masa y guiso. Entonces: hoja de plátano de 40 centímetros x 40 centímetros, limpia – pasada o no por calor- con las líneas en vista horizontal, cucharada grande de masa tibia o fría mejor todavía – 130 a 150 gramos, ligera concavidad central en la masa, rellenamos de guiso, rematamos con hierbas y especias. Envolvemos. Cocinamos al vapor en vaporera, horno manaba o tamalera por 30 a 45 minutos. El tiempo dependerá de cantidad de bollos, vigor del fuego.

Guatita: el hongo ostra posee una textura en su tallo o pedúnculo que ofrece una jugosa y firme resistencia a la masticación. Posee también un “sombrero” unido a este tallo que es capaz de absorber sabores de manera ideal y eficiente. Se hace un refrito con cebolla blanca, pimiento, ajo, achiote, culantro y sal. Se divide el refrito. En una mitad se refríen papas y zanahorias en cuadritos, se agrega agua o caldo de vegetales, pasta de maní hasta que los vegetales estén al dente. De manera paralela se saltean los hongos en la otra mitad del refrito. Se incorporan los hongos en el guiso junto a arvejitas ya cocinadas. Se rectifica sazón. La arvejitas y zanahorias son ingredientes infiltrados que se pueden obviar o poner en mínima cantidad.

Ceviche: los hongos son versátiles y pueden ser el protagonista principal en diversidad de platos. Utilizaremos hongos silvestres o de pino hidratados en mínima cantidad de agua, luego colados y cortados en mitades o tercios. El agua de remojo se reserva para ser parte del líquido “cevichil”. Tomate, pimiento y cebolla – TPC- como el trío básico que encabeza la lista de compras de los ecuatorianos. TPC que se empacan juntos o al granel y se venden en las calles, por los semáforos, en los supermercados también en “kit” vegetal. Jugo de limón, jugo de naranja verde, jugo de jengibre rallado, ajo y jalapeño picados diminutamente, comino molido, sal, pimienta. Los actores de reparto: mango en cuadritos, chochos. El culantro, como culantro. Se deja ligeramente pasado de sal y limón. Corregimos con el agua de remojo de los hongos hasta calibrar la perfección e identificar en el paladar el curtido potente típicamente costeño. Ese que quita el chuchaqui.

Y así, sacamos el bollo de la olla para reposarlo en un plato. Viene envuelto como un regalo, como un obsequio que nos dio la geografía, el clima, la tradición, la manifestación creativa de alguien en la costa ecuatoriana que hizo una interpretación de los ingredientes y los juntó. Así, yo interpreto continuamente este plato, ahora insignia e identidad de mi cocina.
Eso es la identidad, un regalo que aceptamos, que gustamos, que lucimos, atesoramos a la vez que compartimos. Es una emoción en la memoria, es un guiño cómplice con un coterráneo. Es reconocer un acento, un ingrediente, un olor, un festejo aún lejos de la geografía propia.

Pero no siempre somos conscientes de que nos habita una identidad. Aún así disfrutamos de los manjares.

La identidad es “la sensación que nos da vivir en este punto del planeta, con su gente, sus sazones, sus gustos y disgustos” Stanley Parker, músico.

El bollo vegano (o no) además tiene identidad actual vigente ya que está envuelto en una hoja de plátano, producto por el que somos reconocidos. El concepto de “Cero desperdicio”, cobra parte de una identidad ecológica en formación que anhelo perdure en el tiempo y no se vuelva una identidad perdida y sin adeptos. La identidad culinaria es dinámica, se transforma y se alimenta de sociedad, tendencias, circunstancias, nuevas técnicas, estudios ancestrales y más. Se nutre en estos tiempos con otras disciplinas: agrícola y ambiental por citar un par.

Se “desenvuelve” el bollo, se acomoda con la hoja que luego de haberle proporcionado contención y sabor, ahora funciona de marco de esta obra de la cocina criolla. Se acompaña con el ceviche, la guatita, arroz con quínoa, salsa criolla, aguacate, maíz tostado y chifle -para el ceviche- Te sientes ecuatoriano. Fin.

Apuntes: Identidad gastronómica (IDEGAS): (Del b. lat. identĭtas, -ātis y del griego. γαστρονομία) f. Virtud, inspiración, disposición y habilidad para interpretar los alimentos según los rasgos propios y visión de un individuo o de una colectividad, a fin de transformarlos en creaciones útiles, gustosas, apetecibles, agradables y divertidas, que los caracterizan o distinguen consciente o inconscientemente de los demás. http://www.angelocampione.com/identidad gastronómica/

Nota Este texto lo escribí a partir de conversaciones, divagues y una oferta de colaboración -acerca de la identidad- con Chimi Merino, joven cocinero, cuya cuenta en instagram @elcholo.id rompió (desde mi punto de vista) la hegemonía estética de las cuadrículas. Aunque en blanco y negro (inicialmente), con frases austeras que representan todo un manifiesto “Labia y Jama” por citar alguna, sus propuestas y preguntas son un disparador permanente para la reflexión urgente que la gastronomía precisa.


ÉRIKA GARAICOA PANCHANA Cocinera emprendedora. Estudió Técnicas de cocina internacional en la escuela de chefs de Ecuador. Autodidacta. Heredera de los saberes culinarios de su abuelita Beatriz. Creadora de la marca Cocina y Placer. Considera que la buena alimentación y los hábitos saludables son temas importantes para el desarrollo de una mejor sociedad, pues la buena comida influye en la salud, el buen estado de ánimo, la toma de decisiones y la interacción entre las personas. Actualmente administra Cafetería La Suculenta 100% basada en plantas. Cocina de autor. Además, versiona platillos nacionales e internacionales en modalidad vegana, energizante. Objetivos/intereses culinarios personales: Interactuar en un ecosistema gastronómico encaminado a lo saludable y sustentable. Trabajar en cooperación mutua con otras artes y disciplinas para dinamizar la gastronomía natural, elaborando tanto platos de alta cocina como cotidianos asequibles y fáciles con la presencia y desarrollo de técnicas. Promover la investigación de cultura ecuatoriana ancestral, para aprovechar la riqueza del suelo, sus productos y beneficios. Trabajar para que la cocina ecuatoriana sea reconocida y admirada alrededor del mundo.

 

 

Acerca de Aurelio Paredes

Periodista de Profesión (Licenciado en Comunicación Social, graduado en la Universidad de Guayaquil), ecuatoriano de nacimiento, 59 años de edad y 37 años de experiencia. Empezó en 1982 como reportero radial y escaló posiciones hasta llegar a ser Editor de Deportes de Diario El Universo de Guayaquil, considerado el matutino de mayor circulación en Ecuador; Director de Revista Estadio (Deportiva) y Editor de Revista Vistazo (Política y Actualidad); presentador de televisión en varios programas deportivos; columnista de deportes y páginas humorísticas bajo el seudónimo de Delado; y guionista empírico en algunos programas de la televisión ecuatoriana. En la función pública fue Director de Comunicación de la Procuraduría General del Estado y en la empresa privada, Director de la Federación Deportiva Nacional del Ecuador.

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