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EL CALDO DE MANGUERA

Dice uno de los tantos memes que circulan en las redes sociales, que guayaquileño que no toma caldo de salchicha, no es guayaquileño. Otro meme dice, que guayaquileño que se respeta se manda su caldo de manguera, cuando este chuchaque. Más allá de memes y ocurrencias y de que todos lo coman o no. Nadie puede discutir que ese sabroso caldo hecho con  el salchichón negro, relleno de sangre y arroz, y vísceras de cerdo, es un plato ícono de la gastronomía guayaquileña, que varía según los gustos, pues hay quienes lo prefieren como caldo espeso, mientras otros se sirven solo la salchicha y la menudencia sin caldo. Pero con caldo o sin él, la salchicha es tradición guayaquileña.

El Caldo de Salchicha, también tiene su historia, su origen, su tradición y sus mitos. Así, Wilkipedia (la enciclopedia virtual) lo define como: un platillo típico ecuatoriano, popular en la región de la Costa. Se dice que es lo mejor para el chuchaqui. Este caldo es delicioso, aunque su presentación no es siempre la más apetecible. Es un platillo laborioso por lo que muchos prefieren degustarla en restaurantes o huecas de comida típica. Se recomienda servir con limón y ají.

Lo de que “su presentación no es siempre la más apetecible”, que refiere la enciclopedia, se debe a  su color obscuro (negro) producto de la sangre del cerdo que es uno de sus ingredientes principales y que no es otra cosa que el intestino del animal sazonado y relleno de arroz con verde. En la preparación de este plato hay que ser muy cuidadosos ya que vísceras del cerdo requieres de una gran higiene en su tratamiento y elaboración, ya que si no se encuentran bien limpios, aparte del mal sabor que hará incomible al plato, pueden causar daños a la salud de quien lo consuma en esas condiciones.

Un reportaje de diario El Universo, titulado: “El caldo se salchicha, un plato que llegó con el cerdo y la gastronomía española”, publicado el jueves 4 de octubre de 2007 y realizado por mi colega y amiga Mariví Fierro, compañera en tres medios de comunicación (como que coincidimos, siempre), sostiene que el plato es parte de una fusión de culturas y tradiciones, que tiene acogida entre los guayaquileños.  En criterio de Martha Jurado, entonces, instructora de la Escuela de los Chefs, entrevistada para la nota “Es un plato que llama la atención desde su presentación. Para algunos resulta improbable, para otros una delicia “típica de la gastronomía ecuatoriana, tan rica en sabor como en colesterol. Su ingrediente principal es la tripa del cerdo y el éxito de su preparación radica en la sazón con la que se la condimente”.

En cuanto al valor nutricional del plato, expertos en nutrición, afirman que posee alrededor de650 calorías y no recomiendan su consumo frecuentemente, debiéndoselo degustar como máximo dos veces al mes.

La nota refiere además que: “según los expertos en cocina e historiadores como Jenny Estrada, el origen del plato se ha ido transmitiendo de forma oral en el transcurso de los años. “El cerdo es traído por los españoles con la conquista y su forma de procesarlo también”. Otra nota publicada en youtube con video incluido, recoge la versión de la historiadora que amplía el concepto al señalar: “La morcilla rellena viene de España, sino que nosotros la adaptamos a nuestras circunstancias. No podemos hablar de la mesa americana, no solo ecuatoriana, sin tomar en cuenta el proceso de colonización, provenimos de la mezcla de etnias y culturas”.

La historiadora Jenny Estada, en ese mismo video, se refiere también al origen del caldo de salchicha y el porqué de su peculiar nombre de “Caldo de Manguera” Al día siguiente de la fiesta del 9 de octubre, se celebraba el Día del Bombero. Una referencia del gran historiador, cronista de Guayaquil, Modesto Chávez Franco, que fue también miembro del cuerpo de bomberos, porque ha sido tradición del guayaquileño, revela que las familias mandaban a los bomberos a obsequiar alimentos, entre ellos el, caldo de salchicha, procesados en casa, hecho  con arroz cocinado con la sangre del chancho, entonces los bomberos le pusieron el nombre de Caldo de Manguera porque estaba ligado a la tradición del bombero”.

Esta versión, coincide con la publicada por la nota de El Universo que sostiene que el caldo de salchicha o de manguera, es: “Una de estas tradiciones orales involucra a la figura del bombero de la segunda mitad del siglo XX, la cual, según las crónicas de Modesto Chávez Franco, era un personaje muy apreciado en la comunidad. Según la tradición, los ‘mujeríos’ de una casa de aquella época se reunían especialmente en las fiestas de octubre para rendir honores al bombero, el 10 de octubre, que se celebra su aniversario. A los bomberos se les obsequiaba, entre otros artículos,  cajas de licor, cerdos, vacas y con estos animales se hacía el denominado ‘Llamao’ que era un asado. Una derivación de este plato sería el también denominado caldo de manguera que lo preparaban los propios bomberos o lo recibían como obsequio de diversos barrios. Pero no se ha encontrado ningún documento que certifique esta clase de historias, refiere Estrada.

Con el paso de los años, algunos sectores de la Costa fueron especializándose en la preparación de este plato y lo fueron popularizando. “Lo importante, lo básico es el tripaje del cerdo y tenemos la sangre que es lo que le va a dar el sabor al plato, en el refrito ponemos la sangre, con la mano la desmenuzamos y le ponemos arroz cocido, que es como decía las abuelas sopudo”, acota Estrada en él vídeo.

En la ciudad hay diversos rincones especialistas en este plato en el que las tripas del cerdo se rellenan con verde, unas y con arroz, otras, todas mezcladas con la sangre del animal y con su menudencia. “El secreto es saber sazonarlo con bastante hierbabuena y oreganón para que le dé el sabor. Con el refrito se rellenan las salchichas, refiere Luz María Ramos, quien vende este plato desde hace 30 años”, otra de las personas entrevistadas para la nota de Diario El Universo,  que acota: “Los expertos en preparar este plato lavan las tripas el día anterior durante una hora con cloro, como en el caso de Luz María. El propósito es que no tenga mal olor. También las dejan reposar con agua hervida y hierbaluisa “para darle más sabor”, dice Estrada”.

Otro reportaje publicado por Diario El Universo, éste titulado: Caldo de Salchicha, tradición de 70 años, fechado el 31 de  julio de 2014, aparecido en la Sección Gran Guayaquil y firmado por Juan Pablo Pérez, se refiere al origen de la comercialización del caldo. La nota sostiene que: “En 1925, los salchicheros las vendían en las calles junto con un frasco de ají y servido en hojas de papel de despacho. En el siglo XVI, los Reyes Católicos dictaron al pueblo de España usar las vísceras y sangre del chancho, en lugar de las de vaca o cordero. Esto, para evitar inconvenientes con las restricciones que judíos y musulmanes hacían a la alimentación. El caldo de salchicha también es llamado de manguera, porque en la década del 40 inició en Guayaquil la tradición de que los bomberos los prepararan o sea elaborado para ellos en los homenajes que se les realizaba en octubre. En 1974 se estableció el 10 de ese mes como el día del bombero ecuatoriano”.

El mismo reportaje, detalla la preparación del plato, destacando hacerlo demora un tiempo de tres horas, ya que su elaboración es complicada, pues debe fabricarse la salchicha mezclando diversos ingredientes como, las tripas del cerdo, limón, hierbaluisa, hierbabuena, harina, cebolla colorada y cebolla blanca, pimiento, tomate, ajo, orégano, perejil, albahaca, sal, arroz y sangre de chancho, la que debe comprarse prácticamente coagulada. En la nota, el cheff Carlos Yela Coral, señala que: “Rellenar las tripas es un proceso que debe realizarse con cuidado, pues hacerlo con mucho arroz o verde provocará que al momento de hervir en la olla se revienten. Se debe dejar unos 10 centímetros de espacio en cada extremo -que será amarrado con una piola fina- para permitir que el contenido se expanda con normalidad. Además es importante que cuando ya se hayan retirado las vísceras cocinadas de la olla y se agreguen las salchichas se las pinche con un palillo hasta conseguir la señal de que están en su punto: ya no brotará la sangre”.

La receta

El caldo de salchicha se prepara con salchichas tipo morcillas preparadas a base de menudencias de cerdo, sangre de chancho, arroz, col, plátanos verdes, condimentos. El plátano verde le da su toque especial.

 

Ingredientes

  • 1menudo de chancho
  • 2tazas de sangre de chancho
  • 3tazas de arroz crudo
  • 1/2col pequeña cocinada y picada en rodajas pequeñas
  • 1cebolla colorada
  • 1pimiento
  • 3limones
  • Ajosal, comino
  • 1cucharadita de orégano
  • 1cucharadita de culantro
  • 1cucharada de hierbabuena
  • 5verdes
  • 5cucharadas de achiote

Elaboración paso a paso

  1. Lave bien el tripaje de chancho con bastante agua y sal, luego frótelo con cáscaras de verde y déjelo remojado en limón, hierbabuena y agua por 20 minutos.
  2. Ponga a cocinar el arroz en 4 tazas de agua, por 10 minutos, de esa forma queda sopudo pero no muy cocinado. Déjelo enfriar y mézclelo con la col cocinada y con la sangre.
  3. Aparte prepare un refrito, caliente el achote y fría la cebolla, el pimiento, ajo, sal, comino, orégano, culantro y hierbabuena. Luego, únalo con el arroz. Rellene las tripas con este condumio.
  4. Ralle 2 verdes y mézclelo con un poco de refrito, achote, culantro y manteca de chancho, y rellene algunas tripas con esto.
  5. En 5 litros de agua ponga las menudencias del cerdo, los verdes cortados en rodajas y la col cruda; condimente con sal, ajo y comino. Cocine por una hora hasta que las vísceras estén cocinadas. Coloque entonces las tripas rellenas cuidando de que no se rompan, cocínelas por unos 45 minutos más o hasta que las tripas ya no sangren.
  6. Servir el caldo caliente en un plato hondo, con limón y ají.

El caldo de salchicha o manguera, es una parte del acervo cultural guayaquileña que lo tiene como uno de sus platillos favoritos y uno de los consentidos de la gastronomía guayaca.


Foto: ecuadorgastronomia.com; youtube.com; gastronomias.com

 

 

 

 

 

Acerca de Aurelio Paredes

Periodista de Profesión (Licenciado en Comunicación Social, graduado en la Universidad de Guayaquil), ecuatoriano de nacimiento, 59 años de edad y 37 años de experiencia. Empezó en 1982 como reportero radial y escaló posiciones hasta llegar a ser Editor de Deportes de Diario El Universo de Guayaquil, considerado el matutino de mayor circulación en Ecuador; Director de Revista Estadio (Deportiva) y Editor de Revista Vistazo (Política y Actualidad); presentador de televisión en varios programas deportivos; columnista de deportes y páginas humorísticas bajo el seudónimo de Delado; y guionista empírico en algunos programas de la televisión ecuatoriana. En la función pública fue Director de Comunicación de la Procuraduría General del Estado y en la empresa privada, Director de la Federación Deportiva Nacional del Ecuador.

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  1. Impecable Aureliano. Somos unicos en degustar estas delicias. Leo y releo tus notas y llego a una sola conclusion SOMOS BENDECIDOS DE SER GUAYACOS. TE AMO. BENDICIONES MI BRO!!!

  2. Gracias, Luis. Tu tan atento para conmigo. La plena que sí. Que bueno disfrutar de esas delicias. Somos bendecidos los guayacos. La plena. Un abrazo.

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